This time around, racers, I'm going to go deep inside the domestic vs. Chinese motor controversy and show you how to make the best possible combination of technology, exploding a few myths along the way, and yielding a killer Super 16d powerplant.

Like last time, the machinery here will be built to fairly liberal rules, and the reader is cautioned at several points to make sure he does not exceed the limits of his local rules!

Much has been said on the various bulletin boards, including here at SlotSide, concerning the viability of Chinese motors as true racing powerplants. Unfortunately, the weaker portions of the Chinese motor have overshadowed the better parts, to the point where some just refuse to see what is actually there. Much of the 16d motor, particularly in the latest Trinity AT setup, is actually BETTER than any of the domestic C can, and by artfully combining available pieces you can make an excellent motor at very reasonable cost.

Gather together one new stock Trinity AT setup (the whole motor costs only $11.50), one RJR 38 degree Super 16D or C armature (use the D for strict adherence to many rule sets, but the C is interchangeable from a technical standpoint. Its also prettier.), one pair of Mura Bigfoot II brushes, a pair of Champion light double overhead springs, and 4 TQ or FastOnes button head screws. You should have spent a total of $26.25 U.S., a few dollars more if using the C arm. Now lets go to the workbench.

Disassemble the endbell from the can, being sure to throw away the poor screws so they don't accidentally stick to the magnets. You can also dispose of the stock arm, although if you are stuck in a class that uses it you can go ahead and build it up following the guidelines to come. The most deserved criticism of the Chinese motor centers on the armature, which is why I have selected the RJR. Incidentally, the ProSlot super 16D arm also runs well, but I've had more trouble getting them (big hint to Dan D!). Also dispose of the spacers, the stock brushes, and possibly the springs. I prefer the Champion spring, but of the parts just mentioned the Chinese spring is the least objectionable. I'm referring here to the shiny steel variety that comes on the AT motor. Definitely shun all other stock 16D springs.

Now, what you have left is probably the most accurate low end motor setup around! Exploding some myths here, the Trinity endbell is the most accurate of any D or C size, its only weakness being that the plastic is not as heat resistant as a Mura. The bushing, unlike Koford, RJR, or Champion C types, is large, well aligned, well supported, not sloppy (you listening, Stu?) and I've NEVER seen one seize. The venting is better than any C type save Mura. There is no flashing to remove like Koford or RJR. The hardware is thin, but I'll soon describe how to make it fit the Mura brush better than any other.

Dispensing with another old D can problem, the new AT can now ACTUALLY FITS the magnets! And, the stupid sheet metal clips are gone. Those things were actually the source of most distortion in the earlier Midnite setup. The bushing, as in the endbell, is as good or better than any C can, and it comes aligned very well. It is pressed in without damage (Mura, take note), centered (Koford, take note), and is large enough to hold some oil. Take the time now to solder it to the can. This will take lots of acid flux and a good hot iron. Do this with the magnets out, rinse the acid away when done with water, dry and re-oil the bearing. Re install the magnets. Unlike any C can, the magnets have a nice positive stop so they cant slide back too far, but they could move toward the endbell so add a drop of super glue now.

At this time, CAREFULLY tweak the extreme corners of the can in just a few thousandths to take up the small gap between the can and endbell. International 15 builders are familiar with this step...Just go easy and get it symmetrical between all four spots.

Here comes the hardest part! After gingerly tightening the hardware screws (they strip easily, sure wish TQ had long ones for this application), you need to solder the hood to the baseplate, both positive and negative sides, right next to the springpost. You MUST work very quickly, as the plastic can melt easily. I use acid flux so the 60/40 solder flows quickly, but then use water to clean up, immediately. If you blow this, the whole new assembly is only three bucks, and once you get the hang of it, its easier.

Use the Magnehone brush hood tool to enlarge the hood to Bigfoot size. Some force will be necessary for the first few strokes of the hone. Be patient. Avoid the FastOnes method of just mangling the hood bigger with the alignment bar (told you I wasn't pulling any punches...), and you will be rewarded with the best fitting hardware in the game.

The rest of the assembly is straightforward, using good domestic spacers and the TQ screws. A SMALL dab of superglue or locktite red on the screws is recommended. This setup allows you to mount the endbell at some angle if desired to advance or retard timing, but the RJR arm actually works very well at 38 degrees. You can go about 7 degrees either way without hitting the corner of the plastic endbell on the plate of your stamped steel chassis.

One last note. This motor, because of the large airgap and timing, revs extreme compared to the usual 16D, more like a group 12! I've been gearing 9/38 with .760 tires, with excellent results. It also runs cool this way, with good brakes even in the heavy 4.5" chassis.

C can advocates will no doubt argue that the D size AT setup is still big and heavy by comparison, and they would be correct. However, the honest ones among them will have to admit that the AT is also accurate, and with the domestic armature, just as rugged as any C setup. As for speed, the AT is already a tenth ahead of our old lap times using the same domestic arms. I feel the more open can is unbinding the heavily wired 60/28 wind. GOOD LUCK AND GOOD RACING FOR 1998!!!!

Techman