First and foremost, pick the right chassis for the type of racing you are going to be doing. For example a flexi-type chassis will work for many different racing classes from entry level 16d racing and can be very competitive up to GT12 racing. However, if a chassis is too light for the down force the body offers, then you may have difficultly making the setup handle well. Most race programs limit the types of chassis you can use and the modifications that can, or cannot be done so be sure to get a cop y of the rules from your local raceway and build your chassis within those specs.

Soldering is very important for any bracing, securing the oil-lites and front axels, or for even soldering the motor in if you choose. The secret to clean, strong solder joints is a good soldering iron, good flux, good solder and most importantly to reme mber to clean the parts you are going to be soldering. Often I see cars with huge globs of solder and not only does it add weight, but the solder joint is not as strong as if less solder is used. Ask someone you know at your raceway for some equipment a nd flux/solder recommendations and maybe they can even give you a short demonstration (only if you see by their cars that they are a good solderer).

Let’s start our discussion with a basic flexi chassis. The Champion Turbo-flex, or the Parma Flexi-1, or Flexi 3 are all good chassis for both Oval racing and Road Course racing. Choose whichever one works best for your style and personal preference.

Starting with a new chassis right out of the bag. Make sure everything is straight and level. Remove the top pan from the bottom pan and place the chassis on a level surface like a piece of corion, or something else you are sure is level. . You can al so do this with a straight edge metal ruler and holding it length-wise along the chassis bottom, while holding it at eye level. Gently bend any parts that need it so they are straight and flat. A flat chassis is going to handle better.

Again, check with your local rules about the restrictions on bracing and then decide if based on the type for racing you are doing, if bracing is necessary. For example, if I am racing on an oval track I will normally brace the guide flag with a Sick 7 g uide flag protector and install a v shaped brace underneath it to add stability to the guide flag and the front extenders. Oval racing can be hard on cars, especially on the outside lanes as cars tend to end up out there and if the racing is fast, you ma y bend a guide tongue a subsequently lose a lot of laps. My experience is that road course racing does not normally create as much a need for bracing the nose of the chassis.

However, the next step in bracing the chassis is to brace the rear axel uprights. Using a piece of .063 metal wire (piano wire) make a brace that fits between the uprights and solder it in. A hint…if you are having trouble cutting a piece to fit properl y, just cut it a smidge longer on the bottom of the “U” and bend it in the middle and it will in effect shorten the length of the wire, until it fits properly.

Next solder in the front axel using brass front axel spacers on the inside of the uprights to give you a solder point against the chassis. Next add a long spacer and the front wheels and using a brass cap (instead of the springs that you can never get of f again) solder the stop on the outside of the wheel. Once you have the outside stop soldered then move the long inside spacer lightly against the inside of the wheel and after soldering it in place make sure the wheel turns freely. Failure to solder th e front axel to the chassis can cause big problems should your axel get bent during a race as it can cause the car to deslot as the wheel flops around and hits the track.

Although, you may have to do some tweaking, this chassis setup is to will be very durable and is still not too heavy for most racing.

Speed Racer