How to Open an HO Club


Forming a HO slotcar club is a great deal of work but the benefits far outweigh the effort. The goal of this article is to identify some of the key items, in my opinion and experience, that make for a successful club.
Since I first got "into" slotcars it has always seemed the commercial tracks can rarely stay in business for more than a year or so. As a result I've been without a local track to race on for the majority of the last 32 years. The problems faced by commercial tracks have been dealt with thoroughly in other articles so I won't go into that topic here. Suffice it to say if you cannot travel the nation and want to race slotcars regularly, year after year, some type of home-based club racing is the most viable way to go. While this article based on my experience with HO Slotcar clubs the principles surely apply to any scale of "in-home" track.
First of all how to start a club? There are always people in your area that share the same interest you just have to meet them. Most hobby shops will let you post a notice and there is always the local grocery bulletin board. (Now that I think of it you might even have some success on the Internet.) The bottom line is to put together about a paragraph of information and include a method for people to contact you. When I moved to Rochester, Mn in 1989 there were no commercial tracks, not even in Minneapolis or St Paul! So after a few months of stewing I put a flyer up in the local hobby shop and soon received calls from about 5 people. Six years later we typically get 12 racers at a meet and sometimes 20, so don't expect the club to start out big just get it going and keep at it.
Lets assume you meet some other slotcar lovers and you all decide to form a club. The real trick is to keep it going. To that end I submit my Six keys to a successful slotcar club.
1. AVOID BURNOUT - The typical commercial track has to sell parts to stay in business. The best way to sell parts is to get people to race often, at least once a week if not more. However racing this often will burnout even the most avid slotcar fanatic. It is just too much too frequently.
Our club holds an 8 race championship with the races spaced out to once a month. This timing seems to work out just about right. We race often enough to satisfy our need for speed but infrequently enough to have time for the home fires, jobs, and other hobbies. One club I know of raced once a week every week for 6 months. At first it kept everybody fired up and they often had over a dozen racers. By the second season however attendance fell off to just a few regulars. That organization is now struggling to exist. On the other hand I know of a club that races on ovals for 6 weeks in a row and that's it for the year! That group has been at it for something like 15 years now. Exactly how you limit your racing doesn't matter, the point is to avoid getting so obsessed you race to the exclusion of all else. This is especially important if the group has kids in it. The threshold for burnout in youngsters is much less than adults.
2. NEWSLETTER - Putting out a newsletter is an incredible amount of work but it can make a big difference in keeping club members coming back to the races. Primarily the Newsletter should document results for all the racers. Don't just say who won, publish everybody's lap totals per lane and qualifying times. These numbers are an important tool for the enthusiast who is not winning. By looking at their results lane by lane a racer can see if they are improving and identify the areas where they need to improve to start winning. The Newsletter writer can even clue the backmarkers into this type of analysis. For example: "While Gordy, Curt and Lee took the top three podium spots only a bad run on gutter-red kept JJ out of the top 3." After reading this JJ should get the idea that with a little improvement he'll score his first top 3 instead of just thinking he'll never be able to beat those "fast guys." A well done Newsletter can be just the kind of encouragement someone who is struggling needs to stick it out and keep trying. Finally a newsletter is also a great mechanism for sparking interest and helping a club grow. The local Hobby shops post our newsletter and that brings in new racers regularly.
3. RULES - If we are just out to have fun why do we need rules? Any club needs rules to keep the competition fair. I submit that good close FAIR competition is the most fun you can have. You need rules for what's legal on the car and a process for enforcing those rules. You need rules for how to run the races and you need rules for how the club is run. It's also important to keep the rules stable for at least a season. There is nothing more frustrating for a new racer than to have the rules changed just after they've built their first car.
It is very important to have unambiguous definitions for what is and isn't legal on the cars. Only by making sure that nobody is bending the rules can healthy competition be maintained. Our Club has a technical inspector who checks over each car before each race. After the race the 2nd through 6th place racers vote whether or not to tear down the top three cars. This system seems to work.
To run races, clear policies on track calls and race director duties are essential to ensuring fairness. In our club we all act as race director at one time or another and we all strive to do our best to be fair.
I suggest starting with a copy of one of the HOPRA rule book and use that as a starting point for ideas. The main thing is to set up the rules, stick by them honestly, and limit your changes to once a year for the sake of stability.
4. MAKE IT FUN, SERIOUS FUN - I have the most fun when I am trying my hardest at both driving and corner marshalling. Don't tolerate racers trying to crash each other out in the name of fun or a corner marshal who doesn't take that thankless job seriously. By putting out their best effort each member of the club will accomplish the most and in the end have the greatest amount of fun.
5. VARIETY - just as its important to keep your rules stable during a racing season its also important not to stagnate by never changing them over the years. I know of some clubs where all you can run is a T-JET car or a MAGNA-TRACTION car. Hey that's fine but its as though they are stuck in time. Its really hard for a new racer to join such a club since they can't buy the cars or parts they need easily. We have tried to embrace new technology as it arrives and run three different classes so everybody gets to run something they like. Currently these classes are Boxstock, Super Stock, and OPEN. Every year we make minor changes for all three classes to adapt to new products on the market. Sometimes that calls for some tough decisions in the middle of a season. When a certain distributor put polymer traction magnets in TYCO 440X2s then put them in their own package we had to decide was this really a BOX STOCK car? Our answer was no, but it doesn't matter as long as the rules are interpreted the same for every body in the club.
Another aspect of variety is tracks. The neat thing about HO racing is that almost every member of a club will have their own track. To that end we race on four to six different tracks each year with two race meets at some of the tracks. This way almost everybody has a home track advantage at some point during the season.
Having purely fun, non-championship events or races at a meet is also a good way to mix things up. We typically have at least one or two non-points events a year with trophies and prizes. We also have some non-traditional races at various meets. For example at the last race of the championship we hold a CRASH and BURN TRACTOR TRAILER race which is always a laugh filled finale to the year.
6. ENERGY and ENTHUSIASM - Without this element no club will survive and yet no one person can supply enough E&E all by themselves. Pouring effort and thought into your rules, running of the races, publishing of the newsletter and helping the also-rans will result in an entity that has a life of its own. When our club started I shared everything I knew about slotcar racing and hopping up cars and still do. We now have a culture where all the "fast guys" help anyone new or struggling to improve. We are supportive of all members and genuinely enjoy and respect each other because of these efforts. Our wives tease us but our kids can't wait to go racing with Dad! After six years the spouses are going off and organizing things like awards banquets on their own and have established friendships that will probably outlast the racing if it ever does stop.
To me racing is a hobby where the rewards far outweigh the costs and SLOTCAR racing is simply my favorite flavor of the sport. Forming a club and working to make it grow will let you race as often and as long as you can. Strong local clubs will help the hobby grow and prosper but most of all a club will magnify the enjoyment you get from "playing with your slotcars!"Mission: To promote sportsmanship and have fun racing HO slot cars.
CLASSES: S.M.A.R.T runs three classes of cars: 1. CLASS C - BOX STOCK - only Tyco 440-X2 and Lifelike cars may be used. NASCAR replica hard plastic stock bodies only. The class runs the CRASH AND BURN race format.
2. CLASS B - SUPER STOCK - Tomy, Tyco, Lifelike CAN-AM, WSC, GTP, GROUP C,Trans Am, Sportscars. Hard plastic Stock bodies only. No open wheelers.
3. CLASS A - UNLIMITED/OPEN-NEO/POLYMER anything goes. Both Neo and Polymer cars run together in one race but there are two separate championships.
NOTE: Some of our rules are copied directly from the 1992 HOPRA rulebook. However SMART is not affiliated with any HOPRA group. The objective of these rules is to ensure fair competition.
CLASS C - BOX STOCK RULES 1. The chassis shall be stock and cannot be cut. No chassis modifica- tions shall be allowed. Only Tyco 440X2 or LIFELIKE cars and parts are allowed. Parts may not be swapped from brand to brand. 2. The armature magnets shall be stock and cannot be modified in any way. Motor and traction magnets may NOT be shimmed or relocated. Polymer magnets (motor or traction) even if stock are illegal. 3. Any extra magnets used shall be stock, cannot be cut and be of matching stock polarity. 4. On Tyco 440x2s only bulkheads having the four motor magnet retaining tabs on the motor magnet retaining ring may be used. 5. Any flux collectors used shall be stock and shall remain in their stock position. They cannot be modified. They cannot be used upside down. Flux collector coverings shall not be allowed. 6. The armature shall be stock and cannot be modified in any way - no rewinding, dewinding, truing of the commutator, gluing or balancing in any way or other tampering of the motor shall be allowed. The minimum ohmage allowable shall be 5.8 ohms. (measured pole to pole with the armature removed from the car after a 5 minute cooldown) 7. Electrical system shall be stock except for the pickups, motor brushes and motor brush springs which may be stock replacement parts for the car. No shunt wires shall be allowed. BSRT part #218 or equivalent is acceptable for both Tyco and Lifelike cars. 8. The axles, gears, wheels and guide pin shall be stock or stock replacement. The gear ratios must be stock. 7 tooth pinion 25 tooth crown. 9. Rear tires must be stock unless the racer is under 12 and then they may be readily available replacement tires such as AJs, TwinnK, Wizard, sponge etc. ASTs and any custom tire are ILLEGAL! Front tires must be stock unless the racer is under 12 then they are unrestricted. All tires must touch and role (General rule #17). 10. Tyco and Lifelike cars must use the stock manufacturer's hard plastic body. These must represent past or current NASCARs. (ie NO Camaros, Firebirds, or Corvettes) These bodies may NOT be lightened by dremelling or modified. All cars may be repainted. The stock mounting system must be used and may not be reinforced in any way. (For example: NO TAPE) Except LifeLike cars may use a tiny amount of RTV on the four body mounting tabs since the manufacturer builds them this way. Excessive amounts of RTV will be basis for disqualification. The brand of the body must match the brand of the chassis. 11. The use of glue shall not be allowed on the chassis or bulkheads. 12. Additional spacers may NOT be used on the armature or rear axle. 13. Tech tear down: See GENERAL RULE #3 14. Except for Under 12 racers the cars must not be lower than stock.
Points (CLASS C - BOX STOCK)

1.  175  for 1st

    170      2nd

    165      3rd

    160      4th

    155      5th   etc  for all cars that qualify

2.  5 bonus points for the most laps during a heat

3.  5 bonus points for the most laps on all lanes.

CLASS B - SUPER STOCK RULES 1. The chassis must be stock readily available, and cannot be cut. No material may be added to stiffen the chassis. TOMY, TYCO and LIFELIKE cars allowed. TYCO Super Circuit Cars are also allowed. 2. The guide pin shall be STOCK. It may be glued in place but shall remain in the stock location. 3. The armature magnets shall be stock and cannot be cut. (see #6) 4. Any extra magnets used shall be stock, cannot be cut and be of matching stock polarity. (see #6) 5. All magnets shall remain in their stock location. No material or method may be used to restrict the movement of the magnets. 6. Only stock polymer magnets (motor or traction) are allowed. Except Tyco cars may use non-stock Polymer motor and traction magnets. 7. Magnets may not be mixed in a chassis. That is Tyco magnets may not be used in a ROKAR or TOMY chassis or any combination thereof. 8. Tyco X-2 cars shall only use bulkheads having the four motor magnet retaining tabs on the motor magnet retaining ring. 9. Any flux collectors used shall be stock and shall remain in their stock position. They may be used upside down. They cannot be modified except to adjust for height. Flux collector coverings shall not be allowed. 10. The armature shall be stock and cannot be modified in any way - no rewinding, dewinding, truing of the commutator, gluing or balancing in any way or other tampering of the motor shall be allowed. The minimum ohmage allowable shall be 5.8 ohms. (measured pole to pole with the armature removed from the car after a 5 minute cooldown) 11. Axle and armature ball bearings are not allowed unless they are stock. Replacements for stock bushings are unrestricted. 12. There are no restrictions on the gear, axles, wheels and tires except that they must be readily available parts. Applied Silicon Technology tires of any brand even homemade are illegal. Front tires must touch and role. (see General Rule #17) 13. The brush tubes must be stock and cannot be modified in any way. The pickups must be stock or stock replacement. The motor brushes, motor springs and pickup springs are unrestricted. Shunt wire is not allowed. Electrical parts (except for motor comms) may be lightly sanded for cleaning purposes only. The endbell on the Tomy Super G+ is unrestricted as long as shunt wire is not used. 14. The use of glue shall not be allowed on the chassis or bulkheads except for the guide pin. 15. The pickup retaining tabs may be repaired if necessary during a race. However, the chassis shall have both stock pickup retaining tabs intact and unaltered when entered. 16. Only stock-hard-plastic bodies representing GTP, WSC, CAN-AM, Trans Am, or Sports cars shall be allowed. Anything goes except Open wheeled cars. Bodies maybe repainted as desired. - Bodies shall not be modified and shall use the stock mounting system. Except, Aurora bodies may have the mounting post and/or light fixtures removed as needed so they will fit on a Super G+ Chassis. The mounting system may not be reinforced in any manner. (For example: The body may not be taped or glued to the chassis, except Lifelike-See class C #10) - The brand of the body must match the brand of the chassis.(Aurora and TOMY are considered one brand) For example: a TYCO body on an Aurora chassis is illegal. 17. Any rear wings, that originally came on the car must be installed. New wings and brackets can be fabricated provided they match the original wing size and maintain the original appearance of the car. McLaren XJR and Ferrari 612P are exempt since the real versions of these cars raced with and without the rear wings. - The spirit of this rule is to keep the cars looking like real cars yet allow broken wings to be fixed and not force racers to buy a new body every time something breaks. If the race director or tech inspector determines that a car's wings have been remade to gain an advantage of any sort the car will be disallowed. - The wings must be on for tech and the start of the race. If a wing breaks during qualifying it must be fixed for the race. If a front wing breaks during the race it does not have to be fixed. If a rear wing breaks during the race it must be fixed for the next heat and visually inspected by the race director or track owner. 18. Tech tear down: See GENERAL RULE #3
Points (CLASS B)

1.  20  for 1st      13 for 4th      8 for  8th 
  4 for 12th

    17      2nd      11     5th      7      9th 
  3     13th

    15      3rd      10     6th      6     10th 
  2     14th

                      9     7th      5     11th 
  1     15th
2. 1 bonus point for the most laps during a heat (top heat) * 3. 1 bonus point for TQ 4. 1 bonus point to the winner if winner posts most laps on all lanes
CLASS A - OPEN or RESTRICTED POLYMER 1. Any chassis stock or home built. 2. Any motor or traction magnets with the following exception: A. NEO cars run in their own championship provided at least three entries are registered prior to the start of the season. If there are not at least three entires then there will be no NEO championship that season. Everyone will run POLYMERS. B. POLYMERS - all magnets must be of polymer construction. 3. Body must be made of lexan and must be painted. 4. Any tires but front tires must touch and roll (General rule #17) 5. Pickups must be of approved materials but can be modified. 6. The guide pin must be positioned ahead of the front axle.
Points (OPEN)

 9     1st

 6     2nd

 5     3rd

 4     4th

 3     5th

 1     6th         
1 additional point for the winner if they are also top qualifier, scored separately for Poly and Neo.
POINTS SERIES: 1. All series will last for 6 to 8 races. Length of the season will be determined no later than August 1st of that season. 2. The racer with the most points is the Champion. Tiebreakers are a: Most wins. b. Most laps. 3. Points go with the driver or team in all classes. 4. In all divisions you must race the car you qualify. To earn points you must be a SMART member and pay the race entry fee. See MEMBERSHIP section. YOU MUST SUPPLY your own car to earn points. Borrowed cars do not earn points. 5. No races are dropped, however, a designated driver can drive and earn points for the absent racer. The designated driver must use the absent racer's car and controller. 6. A Trophy for the best corner marshal of the year will also be awarded each season. This honor will be determined by a secret ballot held after each race. All ballots will be tallied after the last race of the year. 7. During seasons when at least two regular racers are under the age of 12 a separate championship will be held. Results from classes B and C will score points toward this title. A win in either class will be worth 35 points, 2nd 30 points, 3rd 25 points and so on. If more than 7 racers are under 12 years of age this points scale will be revised upwards.
QUALIFYING: 1. Each entrant will have 30 seconds to run as many laps as they can. The BEST LAP TIME WILL be used. Not the number of laps. Ties will be decided by number of laps. 30 seconds is a recommended time, the time can be changed to suit track size or number of entries. 2. Cars can be qualified on any lane but no time penalty or bonus will be given for any lane. 3. Top qualifier gets first lane choice, 2nd gets 2nd etc. 4. A crash does not end qualifying but the clock is not stopped.
HOW RACES ARE RUN: 1. Heats will last 1 minute for CLASS C (CRASH and BURN format)

                     3 minutes for CLASS B

                     5 minutes for CLASS A
                     
2. Power will NOT be turned off unless a. The track marshals cannot reach a car. b. There is a power failure on one or more lanes or a track problem on any lane. c. There is a crash in or near the lap counters. d. See race rule number 9. 3. 1 minute 30 seconds for pitting will be allowed between heats. 4. Total laps for all heats and track position will determine the winner. The number of heats is determined by the number of lanes being used on the track. At the conclusion of each race, all cars should be left on the track where they stopped after the power was shut off until the order of finish is officially determined and the Race Director authorizes their removal. If a car is removed prior to this time it will be credited with zero sections. 5. No matter how many racers enter all run the same number of heats. 6. Racers not in a heat will marshal. Refusal to marshal means a 20 lap penalty. Marshalls may not work on any car while the race is in progress. Marshalls will be allowed 1 minute of pit time to work on a car and must be back at the track 30 seconds prior to the start of a heat. Marshals not at their station when power comes on will be assessed a 5 lap penalty. 7. Racers who yell at track marshals abusively or use bad obscenities will be penalized 20 laps. 8. Racers who marshal their own car will receive a 5 lap penalty. Definition of 'marshal': to reslot a car after it has crashed or spun out. A driver may pick up their own car and work on it but if the driver deslots another car while resloting their car the 5 lap penalty will be applied. 9. If a driver or marshal damages another car while replacing the car on the track, power shall be turned off to give the owner of the broken car time to fix it. The time limit for repairs will be the time of the heat for the class being run. (1 minutes for C, 3 for B, and 5 for A). 10. When more than eight cars are entered the top 4 qualifiers will run 4 heats straight. Whenever possible races will be run in groups of four otherwise all other racers will compete in a standard rotation. For example if there are 9 entries the first group would consist of the top four qualifiers and the second group the 5th through 9th qualifiers. If there are 12 entries there would be 3 groups of 4 racers each. Results are combined to make one race. On six lane tracks twelve or more entries will invoke this rule using groups of 6. 11. When more than ten cars are entered in CLASS A the club may decide to invoke the TOP 8 rule. When the TOP 8 rule is invoked only the top 8 qualifiers will race regardless of the number of lanes. A majority vote of the club members present is required to invoke this rule. 12. A line one foot from the driver's station (where the controller connects) will be marked on the floor. No driver shall stand in front of that line during a heat. Violations will invoke a 5 lap penalty.
CRASH AND BURN FORMAT: 1. No Marshalling of cars by anybody. 2. A driver can only make laps in their own car on their own lane. 3. In the event of a rider the driver should notify the race director and drive slowly until the rider is in front of the race director then stop. At that point the race director will remove the rider. 4. Power is never turned off unless the race director thinks it should be to maintain fairness. 5. 1 minute heats. 6. Lane assignments are done in order of the cars received by tech or based on point standings. 7. Waves will not be run. All racers will compete in one big rotation. 8. When there are an even four under 12 racers they will run in a separate wave otherwise they are part of the full rotation.
EVENTS: 1. There are two categories of SMART events: IN-HOME events and OPEN TO THE PUBLIC events. 2. IN-HOME events are not open to the public and are open only to SMART members and their guest. 3. SMART members may bring one guest to an IN-HOME event or more if they have permission of the promoter. Guests are the sole responsibility of their sponsor.
GENERAL: 1. If a situation is not covered by SMART rules a majority of the members present will decide the issue. 2. All cars will be inspected by the Tech Inspectors before qualifying. Inspection will be for obvious compliance with rules. It is up to the racer to ensure their car is legal. Racers not passing tech will go to the end of the line. All cars will be impounded when not qualifying or racing unless they have to be repaired. Repaired cars must be reteched. 3. CLASS C and B, the top three cars from a race will be impounded: The race director or designate will pole the 2nd through 6th place racers. If the majority of those racers request a tear down the top three cars will be torn down by the tech inspector as soon as possible but no later than the end of the day. Any driver with an illegal car will loose all championship points earned to that point in the season. 4. Cars may not be wider than 1.3125 inches, minimum wheel base is 1.375, maximum length is 3.00 inches. 5. All cars must use pickups made of standard materials. 6. Any car causing damage to the track will be disqualified. 7. All decisions of the Race Director are final. The Race Director is that individual in charge of scoring and power for a given race. 8. NO TRACTION GLUE ALLOWED. Tires can be cleaned but not treated. 9. Any car without a body or with an interfering body will not be allowed to continue to run. 10. The body must be a replica of an actual car. 11. The body must be painted and cannot have any added air control devices. 12. Except through legal openings, the body must cover the chassis when viewing the car from above. 13. Only one guide pin per car shall be allowed. 14. The terms Lifelike and Rokar are used interchangeably. 15. Track records only count at paid season SMART races. 16. Cars must have four tires that touch and roll on a test track with no rails. 17. Black boxes may NOT be used in class B or C. They may be used in A but are subject to technical inspection. The Tech inspector may require that the box be opened up. Refusal to open the box will be grounds for disqualification.


MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION 1. The yearly membership fee is $5.00, except for racers under the age of twelve who may join for free. Joining the club automatically registers you to score points in the championships. Points will be awarded only after joining the club, race results prior to joining do not earn points. Non member finishing positions will be dropped when figuring points. Non members are always welcome to race and may race the entire season. However after the 5th race of the season no one new may register for the championships. Membership includes: a. Automatic registration in all championships. b. 10 SMART business cards and post cards. c. A copy of the rules and all updates for the season. d. The right to use the SMART logo on your personal wearing apparel. Membership does not include automatic mailings of all newsletters. If you want a newsletter show up at the race or send a SASE to whoever is currently writing the newsletter. 2. Race fees are $1.00 for members and non-members per meet. These fees are used to cover the expense of the newsletter, of running the event and things like buttons and dots. All individuals pay the $1.00 fee even if they do not receive a newsletter. No discount is given to those not running in all three classes. The $1.00 fee will be presented to the treasurer or tech inspector, in return the racer will receive tech sheets for all three classes. Cars not registered with a tech sheet will not race. 3. SMART maintains an address and phone list of all members. This is distributed solely to other members of SMART. Please do not make copies of this list and give it out to the general public. 4. Public announcements of any kind MUST be approved by all SMART members before it is posted or aired. 5. Non-members get 1 copy of the rules for free.
RACE PROMOTER REQUIREMENTS: 1. Race promoters post a $10 trophy purse for each race they sponsor. This money is paid to the club at the start of the season before the date is awarded to the venue. 2. Ideally at least one non-points race should be held on a track before it is used for a championship event. 3. A section of test track must be available to racers at each race. 4. Promoters may provide refreshments and/or prizes but this is not required and will not be reimbursed by the club.

APPENDIX A: TRACK BUILDING GUIDELINES 1. The table should be approximately 30 inches high. Painting the table is optional and scenery is also optional, however scenery should not be too cluttered or block vision. The entire track must be well visible from all driver positions. Must have sufficient retaining wall to prevent cars from falling on the floor (minimum of 4 inches higher than track level, 6 inches is better). The track must be well lit.
2. Must be at least a 4 lane track made from (Tyco, Tomy, or Aurora track or equivalent). BuckTrax or a track of that style construction is also acceptable if not preferred. Track should be nailed or screwed to board, joints should be smoothed out as much as possible. Guardrails may be used on the outside of turns, however we prefer the use of skid pads made from plywood, masonite, or cork model train roadbed. Alternatively the entire track may be embedded flush in the board. Lane colors must be well marked with either paint or stickers. Ideally this marking is continuous, at a minimum color marks should appear no less once than every 12 inches. Colors preferred are blue, yellow, green and red in that order. Heat rotation then is blue, green, red, and yellow. It is best not to have overpasses in the layout because cars can become stuck underneath during a race.
3. Power: Good power is a critical element to having a good track. Power must be a minimum of 18 volts and maximum of 25 volts. If power packs or wall packs are used you must have a separate pack for each lane. Home built or custom built power supply with anti surge capability and voltage regulator is acceptable provided it has the proper power rating. Car batteries may be used, however it must have the proper wiring and circuit protection. You must have a power shut off switch and capability to hook up a timer that will kill power when time is up. If wall packs are used you should run jumper terminal tracks if track is more than 30 feet long to prevent lag. NOTE: Unlimited cars just don't work right unless you use batteries.
4. Track must be wired according to the diagram that follows. Controller connections must be solid 1/4 inch bolts and must be clearly labeled: WHITE (+),Black (-), and RED (Brake).


 Wiring diagram

                                    Controller panel

 Power    + >-----------------------< WHITE

 Supply

          - >----=------------------< RED

                 :

 Track           :

  Left rail >----=

  Right rail>-----------------------< BLACK

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