-Clean all dirty oil off the chassis soon after racing; don't oil car again until
just before practicing. Try Mobil 1; the teflon lasts even if the oil burns off.
-Clean motor-brush coil-spring tabs inside armature compartment; clean
gently with a folded over pipe cleaner or small wire brush on a Dremel.
-Check motor brush coil springs fairly often. These springs loose their ten
sion due to the heat and pressure they're subjected to, and if they start to go
bad, your motor power can go away, too. Change them whenever you detect
a loss in performance, or if they are just very old.
-Occasionally clean pickup shoe hooks where they hook into chassis. Use a
pipe cleaner or wire brush on a Dremel.
-To clean motor brushes, use a wire brush on a Dremel. Don't forget to
clean around the nub on the bottom. If you don't have a Dremel, use very
fine sandpaper or an index card.
-Polish commutator and shaft gently with a wire brush on a Dremel.
-Sand brass idler gear with increasingly fine grades of sandpaper, then pol
ish to a bright shine with a fingernail buffer.
-Spread out front and rear tires as far as the rules and/or tech block will
allow. Use spacers on the front end. Use Super-Glue gel to secure press-on
hubs, but make sure they do not wobble before the glue sets.
-Check drive pinion/crown gear mesh. Remove magnets and idler gear and
spin rear tires with gear plate mounted in chassis. Tires should spin freely
and not bind. If there is binding, make sure everything is oiled and assem
bled correctly, check crown gear for flawed or broken teeth, check cluster
gear assembly for free movement, make sure a tire, wheel or gear is not
rubbing the chassis. As a last resort, try another gear plate or crown gear.
-If crown gear and drive pinion actually slip past one another (a fairly com
mon occurrence) place a very thin spacer behind the crown gear. As a last
resort, try another gear plate and/or crown gear.
-Adjust motor brushes so car rolls fairly freely when power is cut; if rear tires
lock up, or car stops abruptly, then the brushes may be too tight. If car runs
too slowly (or not at all), then brushes may be too loose. Adjust brushes with
motor removed; if too tight, remove spring and brush and press down gently
on top of chassis spring/brush tab; if too loose, gently push spring/brush tab
up from bottom of chassis. When done, brushes should be at the same
height when sitting in their barrels.
-Wheelies caused by excessive pickup shoe tension is not that much of a
problem with Magnatraction cars because the magnets hold the car down;
however, you can capitalize on this by increasing the spring tension which
can increase your power. Just don't increase the tension so much that you
overpower the magnets and force the car out of the slot.
-Tweak pickup shoes so the contact patch sits flat and full on the rails. Run
car for a few laps and observe wear-stripe; it should run evenly through the
entire contact area, not just a spot at the front or rear. Bend slightly to com
pensate, run, then check and adjust again, if necessary.
-If the rules allow, use low bodies with the least amount of front and rear
overhang.
-Make sure that all of your tires and wheels are on straight and have as little
wobble as possible.
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